Frequently Asked Questions

What kind of safe should I buy for my home?
Selecting the right home security safe depends on several factors: 1) Are you most concerned about fire protection, burglary protection, or both? 2) What exactly are you going to keep in your safe -- documents, cash, guns, coin or stamp collection, jewelry, irreplaceable family heirlooms, prescription drugs, etc.? When you have determined these answers, ask a safe expert for advice.

What are the most common mistakes people make in buying a safe?
1) Buying a safe that is too small, then running out of space. At our shop we have a list of items that we suggest keeping in your home security safe. Reading through the list will help you to figure out how much room you will need. 2) Buying one of the cheap fireproof safes (usually from a discount store) to protect valuables. They are easy to break into.

Are all safes fireproof?
No safes can truly be called “fireproof” -- they will all fail if a fire lasts long enough. The proper term is “fire resistant.” So-called “fireproof safes” can differ in their level of fire resistance. There is a wide range of fire resistance from none at all, up to several hours. The best gauges for fire resistance are the ratings given by Underwriters Labs.

A gun safe that claims to be U. L. listed must be really good, right?
That depends. Very few gun safes can be considered to be truly fireproof safes. Underwriters Labs have different ratings for different features. Some manufacturers refer to U. L. ratings in misleading ways, so pay close attention to the wording. For instance, a safe could claim to be U.L. listed just for the relocking device. The UL rating may have nothing to do with fire resistance. There is wide variation in the levels of fire resistance, and most gun safes do not have U.L. fire certifications anymore. Hoogerhyde Safe and Lock can help you sort through this confusion so you know the fire protection you’re getting.

While a “Residential Security Container” burglary rating is a good thing, its value is exaggerated by manufacturers as well. For instance, tools allowed during the test are limited to small hand tools, not long pry bars like the type used in the video “Racing to the Bottom.” Want to be certain of getting a really high security gun safe? American Security is probably the only company offering gun safes with U. L. security ratings of TL-15 or TL-30.

What does a "U.L. Class 350 - one hour" fire rating mean?
It means that Underwriters Laboratories has fire tested and approved that model of safe for that rating. Basically, during a one hour test in a gas furnace, following the Standard Time Temperature Curve which goes up to 1700 degrees F, the temperature inside the safe did not exceed 350 degrees F. 350 degrees sounds hot, but paper doesn't start to char until the temperature is over 400 degrees. U.L. has many different ratings for fire and burglary resistance, but "Class 350 - one hour" is the most common.

My back-up tapes, disks and other electronic data are protected from fire in fireproof file cabinets or fire proof safes, aren't they?
NOT AT ALL! The 350-degree rating mentioned above protects paper.  Your tapes and disks will be destroyed at only 175 degrees F. You need a media safe to protect electronic data! Ask an expert for details.

Is my 90 year old antique safe “fireproof”?
Most antique safes have thick walls that are full of concrete. They were intended to be fire resistant, but there was no standardized fire rating system until about 1950 so they cannot be considered to be “fire proof safes.” Some hold up very well, but there is no way to predict how long an antique will last in a fire.

Are all dial-type combination locks about the same?
No! For a home security safe you should have a “Group 2” lock. “Group 2” is an Underwriters Laboratories rating that refers to burglary resistance. There are locks with higher ratings, but there are many cheap locks with no rating at all. Component materials can be brass, steel, aluminum, zinc and plastic.

Try turning the lock dial while putting pressure on the door handle. If you can feel the lock through the handle. you have a “direct entry lock”. These are cheap lock systems that are put on cheap safes, and they are much easier for a thief to open. You cannot feel a Group 2 lock through the handle. Group 2 locks cost much more – one of the costs of real security.

Are there differences between commercial and residential safes?
Yes. Home security safes are generally built for only fire resistance or fire and burglary resistance. Commercial safes have many more variations. They can be built for fire resistance, but most are not. Most commercial safes are of steel construction only; they are built to protect against burglary, or they have special features that assist in reducing employee theft. Commercial safes usually have higher security ratings, especially safes which handle large amounts of cash or jewelry.

How much will I need to spend on a home security safe?
Costs will vary depending on the type of safe you select. Basic fire resistant safes are the least expensive, while a fire & burglary safe is most expensive. Often, you get what you pay for: a $150 fire safe from a discount store may give you less than one minute of burglary protection (seriously!). And remember -- if you can carry a light duty safe into your house, a burglar can carry it out! Quality fireproof safes with burglary protection will weigh at least several hundred pounds and will probably cost over $1000. A cheap safe is not likely to protect your valuables from a burglar! Safes with higher fire or security ratings will cost more. A good used safe (we have many in stock) will usually save you money.

What will it cost to move my safe to my new home?
To give a cost estimate on moving a safe you need to provide us with specific information. Before you call, measure the exact height, width and depth dimensions of the safe. Look for the manufacturer's name, model and serial number. What is the approximate age, does it have one door or two, does it have wheels? Where is the safe now, and where is it going? Is it on the main floor, in the basement, or second story? Count how many stairs there are both inside and outside the house. What are the floors and stairs made of? How wide is the staircase, are there turns in the stairs, and how much room is there at the top and bottom of the stairs?
We will not attempt any moves that we feel are unsafe. Moving safes is not inexpensive, but our rates are usually about half the cost of "heavy movers".

I lost the combination to my safe.  Can you get it open?
Yes. Sometimes we can get access to the original combination through our various sources. Sometimes we can open it by hand, without drilling. Sometimes we need to drill it open, but our skilled technicians can usually do it in a way that leaves no visible hole. This takes lots of training, experience and special tools; "clean openings" are rarely accomplished by amateurs.